【旅行記】2014年9月/揚州炒飯の旅
先日やっとこ2013年の青島旅行レポを書きあげたわけですが、
こちらに来てから行ったぶんの旅も日本語の練習がてらぼちぼち書いていくことにします。
最近、140字以上の日本語を書く能力が著しく低下している気がするので・・・
さて上海に来て初めて行った旅行は、去年の国慶節に行った揚州。
その頃は来たばかりであんまりお金も気持ちも余裕がなかったのもあり、近場にしました。
近場だと他に杭州や南京なんていう選択肢もあったんですが、
なんせ揚州といえば「揚州炒飯」の聖地!
そして私のTwitterアイコンである韋小宝の出身地!てことで決めました。
もうだいぶ時間が経ってるので有些記不住了ですが、
TwitterとFBのレポを見直しながら記事にしておきます。
もくじ
初の中国の高速鉄道駅にテンションあがる
国慶節休みといえば中国大陸十ウン億人民族大移動期間ですが、
会社の休みが法定の国慶節休みと少しずれていたので助かりました。
(カブっていたら宿も電車もとれなかった)
とりあえず初の鉄道の旅にテンションあがるあがる!
こちらは上海南駅。すごーい空港みたーーい!
日本の駅より、いかにも「旅に出るぞー!」って感じがしていいですね。
今回乗ったのはいわゆる「中国版新幹線」和諧号ではなくT列車。
車内はなんかこうもっと人民たちでカオスなのを予想してたんですが、
予想外に快適であっちゅうまに揚州到着。
車内では寝てるかツイッターしてるか《宮鎖心玉》見てるかでした。
行きも帰りも車中で実演販売があり、
乗員さんが吸水セームタオルみたいなんを売りはじめたんですが、
このトークが実に上手くて感心してしまい、つい買ってしまいそうにw
ほんまにもう、タカタ社長みたいな感じでプロですよあれは。
同じモノ売りとして尊敬です。
そしてこちらが揚州駅(やる気がなかったのかブレブレっすね)
ホームも広くてきれいでした。
揚州炒飯を食べるついでに観光
さて、この旅の最大の目的はあくまで「揚州炒飯」です。
観光はおまけ。
というのも知人からかねがね、
「蘭州で食べた蘭州ラーメンはどこに行っても美味しかった!」
「南翔で食べる南翔小龍包はどの店でも美味しいよ!」
すなわち
「本場で食べるとなんでもビックリするくらい美味い」
というような話を聞かされていたからです。
日本では週3で炒飯食ってたくらいの炒飯バカの私としては、
やっぱり揚州炒飯の本場へ行かねばならんでしょう。
1店目は適当にそなへんのローカルへ
というわけで、夜に宿に到着したあとさっそく1店目へ。
宿は、上海でいう豫園のような「いかにも」な観光街「東関街」にあるYHにしたのですが
外へ出てみてびっくり。
ガラーーーン
おいおい大丈夫か揚州・・・まだ8時だぜ・・・
仕方ないので何とかメシにありつこうと東関街を出ると、
すぐ向かいのローカルエリアが賑わっている!!
観光街よりこういう普通の場所のほうがずっと楽しそう。
狭い道沿いに、中国4大料理のひとつである江蘇料理のなかでも最も有名な
「淮揚菜」のお店がずらっと並んでいるもんだから、どこに入るか悩む。
するとある店のおっちゃんが「お姉ちゃんここ空いてるよ、座っていきな!」
と声をかけてくれたので、即決しました。
とりあえず揚州炒飯と、これも淮揚菜の代表料理である獅子頭を注文。
きたきた!
獅子頭はおっちゃんが気を利かせて1人前にしてくれたよー
(ふつうだと4〜5人前ある)
うん、普通にうまい!!! 特に獅子頭がうまい(笑)
いや炒飯も、感動するような味ではないけど素朴な味で、好き!
老板も老板娘も優しくて居心地のいい店でした。
期待値を100とすると、70点てところかしら。
翌朝は宿で同室になった上海の女の子と朝ごはんへ。
こちらも揚州名物の蟹黄湯包。
お察しの通り中身は全部かにみそスープで、添えてあるストローでチューチューします。
関西人なら8割くらいの確率で「脳みそ吸うたろか」ごっこをすると思われますね。
これもまたうまかった♡
大明寺と个園をぐるり
さて、「ついで」の観光ですが、行ったのは見出しの2箇所のみ。
貧乏旅行人には入場料がいちいち高すぎるのと、
すでに一通りまわってきた同室の子たちが
「観光地はたいしたことない」と口をそろえて言うのでw
まず向かったのが大明寺。
こちらは日本でも有名な鑑真和尚がいらっしゃったお寺です。
あーこれだ、この顔に落書きしましたよねぇ。
こんなとこにベーアーさんと影帝さんがなぜ・・・
塔です。登ってみましたが景色はふつうでした。(←)
日本語のはずなんだけど全く頭に入ってこない説明文。
お庭は普通にきれい。
続いて、庭園都市揚州きっての名園、「个園」に。
この「个」は「個」の簡体字ではなく、
竹が好きだった持ち主さんが園内に多くの竹を植えると同時に
「个」が竹の形に似ていることからこの名前をつけたのだそうです。
庭園より炒飯(≒花より団子)な私でも、
ここの景色にはほっこりしましたね。
還珠格格のロケだったりとか
えざわ・たみさんだとかの大御所の写真がたくさん飾られてました。
感動の揚州炒飯を求めて老舗&ホテルへ
しかし、観光したらはらがへるのである。
ここらで本来のミッションを遂行せねば・・・ということで
まず向かったのは大明寺の向かいにある《冶春茶社》
ガイドブックの類にも必ず載っている、百年の歴史を持つ名店です。
揚州炒飯と、
これまた名物のひとつ、乾絲(豆腐皮)をいただきます。
乾絲はさっぱりしてとっても美味しい〜!
しかし炒飯は・・・これは・・・そなへんの東北菜の店レベルでは・・・
むむぅ、点心のお店だから、炒飯は専門外なんだろうか・・・
ショックだったけど、東関街で食べた口直しの湯圓が美味でごきげん☆
うまかった〜♪(昼間の東関街はそこそこ賑わってましたよ)
辮髪像があっちこっちにおります。
揚州炒飯とは幻だったのか・・・
続いてさきほどのリベンジをすべく向かったのは、
中国版《食べログ》こと《大衆点評》で評価の高かったこちらのお店。
ホテル内にあり、環境は抜群、サービスは普通です(←)
円卓で1人で青島ビールだぜ。
おやつの食べ過ぎでお腹いっぱいだったので、1人分の揚州炒飯と、
獅子頭を。
感想:
うまい。しかしおもてたんと違う。
いやぁ・・・正直、揚州炒飯に相当幻想を持ってきたので、
けっこうショッキングでしたね。
私の思ってた揚州炒飯は単なる日式炒飯なんだと、この時わかりました。
打ちひしがれてそのまま宿に戻ろうとしたんですが、
なんかこう物足りなくて、なんとな〜く、
ゆうべ行ったローカル店の方角へ向かったのでした。
「この(抗日)ドラマの日本人が何言ってるのかわかるのか!」
昨日行ったお店の辺りをふらふら歩いていると、昨日の老板が私に気づき、
「お姉ちゃん!今日もあいてるで!」と声をかけてくれ、
「まぁまぁまぁ座りぃや!!(坐坐坐坐!)」とテラス席(↓)へ案内してくれました。
これもなんかのご縁だし、てことで、
おなかはいっぱいだけど、せっかくだから軽くご馳走になることに。
老板「なにたべる?」
F「うーん、あんまりおなかすいてない、何がおすすめ?」
老板「昨日は炒飯とお肉で野菜食べてないから、野菜にしな!」
F「じゃあ空芯菜で!」
てな感じで出てきたなんの変哲も無い空芯菜炒め。
いやぁ、うまかったです。
いたって普通の料理だし、結局店の名前もよくわかんないんだけどさw
(ちなみにさっき行ったホテルの店の名前も全く覚えてませんすみません)
外国人が来ることはたぶん珍しいんでしょうね。
老板に「日本人だよ」というとめちゃくちゃテンション上がって、
「マジか!じゃあこのドラマ(陸毅が出てる抗日ドラマ)の日本人が
言ってることわかるのか?すげぇ!」
「母さん、あのお姉ちゃん日本人だってさ!」
とキャッキャキャッキャするので、ずいぶん和みました。
(実は前の日に中で食べた時も同じドラマを流してたので、日本人とバレたらマズイのかなとか些か心配してたのですw)
結論:やっぱり旅の食事はローカルに限る
ほんとこれ。
上海に人が遊びに来た時も極力自分がふだん使ってる店に連れて行きますし、
自分がアテンドされる時もそのほうがうれしい。
もちろんその土地の名店を調べていくのもよいですが、
こういう名もなきお店にふらっと入って、
地元の人と交流するのも旅の醍醐味だよなーと改めて思いました。
炒飯的には消化不良だったけど、
「炒飯食う」以外の予定なきゆるゆる旅にしては上手くいったのではないかと。
やっぱり旅はいいものですね。(疲れたので安易にまとめる)
番外:揚州観光産業のカンフル剤にぜひ韋小宝を
最後に・・・全く忘れてましたが、韋小宝を思わせるものは一切見つけられませんでした。
確か去年だったかに韋小宝テーマパークができるという話が持ち上がったんですが、
そのゲスいキャラや妓楼の生まれという属性など、
揚州の顔にするにはイメージが悪すぎると反発が上がっているのだとか。
しかし揚州の観光地らしい観光地は、言っちゃ悪いけど寂れてるし、
「よかったよー!ぜひ!」と諸手を挙げて人にすすめられるようなところではない。
そんなちょっと残念な観光地の起死回生コンテンツのひとつとして、
韋小宝ってこれ以上ないと思うのだけどなぁ。
建寧公主にロウソクたらしてもらえるアトラクションとか、
美女8人と湖で一緒に入浴できるアトラクションとかさ。
うん、そうだねこういう案しか出てこないからおじゃんになるんだね・・・
Falさん理解した。
でももし韋小宝テーマパークができたらもう一度行きますよ、揚州!
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